Archive for December, 2008

Girls, Not Your Father’s Brooks Brothers

Monday, December 8th, 2008

This was first published on The Huffington Post on 5 December 2008.

When I was little, I slept in my dad’s tattered (retired) Brooks Brothers shirts, sometimes wearing them backwards as a smock in art class. He said they were The Best. The American Gold Standard for businessmen. He once proclaimed every male should have a blue blazer in a FedEx box to be sent in case of a fashion emergency at a moment’s notice. I could not see the fashion relevance. I didn’t get it.

Twenty years later, (a week ago in New York,) I found myself Getting It. I had loved the Fall 2008 ad campaign shot by Nathaniel Goldberg, featuring Bridget Hall in Central Park.
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It was my first time inside in the store, the flagship on upper 5th Avenue. I went in and all the sudden, I eyed and became mesmerized by a classic double-breasted navy blue blazer ($388.00), a women’s version of my Dad’s staple.
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I’ve known petite women who shop in the boys’ dept of stores like this one, but this was different. I tossed it on over my threadbare t-shirt, leggings and boots. Love! Then another: a camel cashmere blazer. ($498.00)
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Then an extra thick belt (think: Alaia 3-buckle corset goes riding in the country), then a fur hat, then a grey cable knit sweater. I was in Preppy Handbook heaven! Soon I had a heap of clothes and a sales associate named Eva with a thick Russian accent grabbing me sizes. “You know, right now we have sale: buy 2, third is free.” My eyes lit up. We are not talking a sale in the grocery store on week-old watermelons! These are cashmere Loro Piano blazers made in Italy with shiny gold buttons. Yet even the retail price without the discount seemed cheap (compared with, say, a $1,695 Stella McCartney jacket.) I was smitten with the effortless feeling of Uber Prep-ster yet Classic Modern Chic of the blazers. Very “boyfriend blazer” and very now.

I know — I was shocked too. Once I got past the fuddy duddy styling of these pictures above (catalog; not Bridget Hall), I saw that the garments themselves were hardly the tartan, granny, prudish BB I’d remembered. They were very stylish indeed. Having never purchased there in my life, I left with 3 blazers for the price of 2 (plus they offer an additional 15% off with a BB credit card, which I actually declined since too many cards decreases your credit rating.) I am someone who is loving (or seeing the silver lining of) this economic downturn if only because the sales make the astronomical prices of luxury goods somewhat affordable. And it seemed to make sense to buy a classic staple in this economy that will last forever.

New Orleans: A Colorful Revival of Crumbling Grandeur

Monday, December 8th, 2008

This was first published on The Huffington Post 1 December 2008.

Upon booking my first trip to New Orleans, Vogue promptly landed on my doorstep. There, before my very eyes, was a whole page dedicated to the style of New Orleans, or in my case: What To Pack. (Cue angels singing from above.) Vogue inspired colorful dress and vibrant prints suitable for the warm weather and bright street culture.

Packing list:
Vintage Albert Nippon floral sundress, for day strolling
Sunglasses
Neutrogena Dry Touch SPF 80
Marni sun hat
H+M (Balenciaga knock-off) chintzy mini dress
Alexander Wang cropped leather jacket
House of Lavande diamante cuffs (take that, mardis gras beads!)
Shanghai Tang multi-colored sequin cocktail dress
Martine Sitbon turquoise mesh stiletto sandals
Neon beaded Lulu Frost necklace
Cecelia stingray clutch
Camera (Leica point + shoot)
Black Louboutin ballets
Sergio Rossi strappy flat sandals
A Man in Full by Tom Wolfe to read on the plane (takes place in the South)

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Upon landing, my driver fetched me with his soft Southern drawl and chivalrous grace (gladly). What I found was a lovely finally! feeling for wearing color and a bit of shimmer in The Big Easy. I love to wear brights (and even unexpected neons) but even I can get discouraged sometimes in the cool blue of winter. It fits right in with the bright yellows, red and blues of the fabulous architecture, intricate balcony ironwork (and the ferns and flora over which they drape) and easygoing yet spirited lifestyle. I worried less of being overdressed or wearing too much color, than I do the grey cement gardens of NYC. A relevant fashion metaphor might be drawn to their culinary culture: seasoned, saucy, and spicy.
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In 2005, I had witnessed, along with the rest of the world, as much of the city flooded in Hurricane Katrina, sucking down the cultural spirit along with it. But this was not the New Orleans I saw today. The New Orleans I experienced was a city rebuilt, and more radiant than ever, full of hope, passion and bustling with artistic energy (Prospect.1) It was fashionable, lively, boozy, woozy, fun and colorful! I hope this inspires you to visit because New Orleans needs you more than ever. NOLA welcomes you!

The Best Places to Visit When You’re There:

Prospect.1 New Orleans
http://www.prospectneworleans.org/
[P.1] is the largest biennial of international contemporary art ever organized in the United States, in museums, historic buildings, and found sites throughout New Orleans.

Café du Monde
1039 Decatur Street New Orleans, LA 70116
1-800-772-2927 Monday – Friday 8:30am – 5:00pm
http://www.cafedumonde.com/
Breakfast – dine on their famous beignets, coffee and orange juice.
Situated at the head of Jackson Square as hoarse drawn carriages trot by.
The Big Easy is about indulgent excess, and going all the way, even with breakfast.

Soniat House
1133 Chartres Street, New Orleans, LA 70116
Phone 504 522 0570
Phone (Toll Free) 800 544 8808
http://www.soniathouse.com/
Photo-op heaven! Quiet coutyard feel like Europe. New Orleans’ smallest luxury hotel in the romantic French Quarter…it’s the hotel you dream of discovering and New Orleans’s answer to a Relais & Châteaux. The Soniat House is comprised of three historic townhouses, with balconies and secluded courtyards. Unique, charmingly furnished guest rooms with period antiques in rich colors and luxury fabrics, Egyptian cotton bedsheets and goosedown pillows. The Chateau Marmont of Nola.
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Lower Ninth Ward, Prospect.1
http://www.prospectneworleans.org/
The site specific artwork from P.1 is amazing on it’s own, but what makes it most spectacular is the fact that it literally draws you into parts of the city that were the most catastrophically devastated by Katrina. This was the most flooded and destroyed area in Katrina. Today it feels like a vast, overgrown, urban field. Some houses have been rebuilt (we saw some of Brad Pitt’s), but mostly there are earily quiet, abandoned lots, dilapidated homes destroyed by the hurricane, and a few cars and people. Prospect.1 made this a hub of site-specific artwork, drawing thousands of visitors. Los Angeles artists Mark Bradford built a giant wood ark made of salvaged plywood from local homes [PHOTO P1000754.JPG]. A Diamond Is Forever had generously sponsored this, along with many of the artists and sculptures for Prospect.1. We also saw a public restroom that was turned into a fountain by artist Robin Rhodes. An installation by Wangechi Mutu began as a housing lot decorated with strung Christmas tree lights that mimicked the structure of the owner’s would-be home. The work was hanging directly above a shoddy foundation where builders had actually absconded with the insurance money to rebuild a real house. Devastating.
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New Orleans Mint
1123 La Salle St
New Orleans, LA 70113
(504) 522-3048
The Old U.S. Mint features art work from across the world as a key venue in the largest biennale in the United States.
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What Remains: Photographs by Sally Mann
Ogden Museum of Southern Art
925 Camp St., 539.9600; www.ogdenmuseum.org
Internationally acclaimed photographer Sally Mann’s What Remains expo features subjects that range from human skeletal relics and the death of her beloved pet greyhound, Eva, to a series dealing with the suicide of an escaped convict on the grounds of her family home. She is a favorite photographer of mine and this is a rare and wonderful chance to see her work. Through December.

Antoine’s Restaurant
http://www.antoines.com/
RESERVATIONS: 504-581-4422
Antoine’s Restaurant • 713 Rue Saint Louis • New Orleans, Louisiana 70130
This place is an old-school favorite, where we were served a 16-course tasting menu of southern Creole Cajun food, gumbo, a local drink called a “Hurricane,” and Sazerac punch. Very creamy, spicy, and seafood-heavy. So saucy, all you need is a spoon;You barely use your knife and fork.
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Garden District
Stroll down sunny Coliseum Street, lined with gorgeous Georgian mansions, each one grander and more eccentric than the next. The architecture combined with the installed art, the ornate gold chandeliers, and aristocratic oil paintings was just divine in a patina-ed, bit-of-rusting-grandeur kind of way. What is perfection about this neighborhood is how un-perfect and beautifully rambling it truly is. Mark Twain lived in this house.
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Commander’s Palace
1403 Washington Avenue
New Orleans, Louisiana 70130
at the corner of Coliseum Street in the Garden District
1-504-899-8221
Consistently ranked as one of the best in the country, I fed on the biggest raw bar I’d ever seen: a small boat filled with crabs, shrimp, oysters. There was also a suckling pig, fish with candied pecans, truffle-infused eggs over buttered biscuits, and corn cakes with caviar. Oh la la! Every southern delicacy you could imagine.
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Top 6 Shoe Trends For Fall 2008

Monday, December 8th, 2008

This was first published on The Huffington Post 19 August 2008.

Reported by Kate Schelter
Edited by Lesley M. M. Blume

Editor’s note:

The era of the ostentatious ‘it’ bag is over. Blaring logos are dead.

But this fall, statement shoes are bigger, taller, and more opinionated than ever.

Below, Huffington Post Style section contributor and fashion-world insider Kate Schelter details six major shoe trends for this upcoming season. Love them or hate them, these designs will dominate the market from Manolo Blahnik to Nine West this autumn.

This list contains guilty pleasures for every woman, from the golfer to the dominatrix. We are particularly fond of the nostalgic Karen Blixen-esque spectators and the safari print pumps (“Mrs. Robinson – are you trying to seduce me?”). And as a bonus, Schelter generously offers notes on how to wear each style, including the most menacing patent booties.

A warning: don’t mix cocktails with the platforms … you won’t come out alive.

1. Return of the Spectator
Boy by Band of Outsiders collaboration with Manolo Blahnik.

Schelter’s note: Unfortunately these were never produced beyond a sample. But you get the picture, literally! I would have purchased these myself. They are so clean and modern, just white + navy canvas, with a hint of Croquet.

For more: boy.bandofoutsiders.com

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Alexander McQueen peep-toe version

Schelter’s note: These shoes are great with wide-legged trousers (they’d only show when you crossed your legs in a chair), or with a miniskirt and opaque tights.

For more: www.net-a-porter.com

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2. Black Patent T-strap heels with Platform
Jimmy Choo T-strap heels

Schelter’s note: The least platform of the three shoes shown here, and probably the most conservative. But I like the “low-fi” version of this sexy trend.

For more: www.net-a-porter.com

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Burberry Studded T-bar sandals

Schelter’s note: You pack two trends with these with the added studs. Great with a delicate party dress to really show some fashion cred.

For more: www.net-a-porter.com

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Yves Saint Laurent Tribute Sandal – Black Patent

Schelter’s note: Last season’s bestseller and fashionista fave is back with new colors and in new heights, which quite literally makes them great for more petite women who want to add some height. Tall girls beware: these get a little close to looking like stripper shoes if you are already 5′ 7″ or above. Men will feel totally intimidated by you and you will be a head taller than everyone else at the party. These are also great under wide legged pants if you just see a hint of the toe coming through.

For More: www.barneys.com

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3. Classic Stiletto Pump – sans Platform
Sergio Rossi Veronica Black Patent Leather Pump

Schelter’s note: I bought these myself! If you can only buy one shoe this season, this is it. You can wear it day, night, office, dinner, drinks, date – it goes with everything. Try wearing them with Fogal black sheer stockings (with a black seam up the back of the leg) and it will have a touch of Guy Bourdin quality without looking retro.

For more: www.sergiorossi.com

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Sergio Rossi Angelica Patent Leather Round-toe Stiletto Pump – Indigo

Schelter’s note: These pack a punch and have a slightly higher heel and rounded toe shape than the one above. I LOVE this Yves Klein blue, which as a mate totally updates this season’s all-the-rage return of the Little Black Dress.

For more: www.sergiorossi.com

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Kate Spade pump

Schelter’s note: I bought these, too. Vogue loved “this season’s must-have watercolor trend.” But please don’t pair these beautiful shoes with a matching poufy pink prom dress; pick something watercolor-UNrelated, and the shoes will be their own statement. They have that slight Marni or Dries van Noten feel with the print and palette for half the price; Kate Spade is a very reasonably priced line.

For more: zeta.zappos.com

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4. Winter Safari
Normally I would pass on the animal print shoes or belts as I feel they’re a little matronly or cliché chic. However, I recently saw Vogue-contributor Lauren Santo Domingo wearing a pair of YSL Snow Leopard print heels with a beautiful neutral look (a beige Yigal Azrouel Spring ’08 skirt with a grey t-shirt). The whole look inspired me: it seemed like a completely modern and unfussy way to wear animal prints.

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From style.com
Lanvin Patent Cone Heel Pump – Little bit of leopard

Schelter’s note: I’m not that crazy about this cone heel as it’s a little too trendy for my taste, but it will look very “right now” if you’re into that sort of thing.

For more: www.kirnazabete.com

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Sergio Rossi Angelica Giraffe Print Pump

Schelter’s note: These are my faves… totally gorgeous. The heel, the last, the unusual print.

For more: www.sergiorossi.com

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Silver Fox Python Round-toe Pump

Schelter’s note: I found these shoes positively arresting. Ladies, men and traffic alike will stop you when they see you in these.

www.sergiorossi.com

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5. Bootie Call!
Manolo Blahnik Lacy lace-up bootie

Schelter’s note: I have these in black leather, and when I wear them I get more compliments than ever. I love the lacy quality, which is very now: a modern variation of the spectator, but with the open toe detail. And the lace alludes to Alaia. Again, these are a great rocker juxtaposition (think leather and lace) to a pretty party dress. I paired mine with an ethereal Erin Fetherston floating white cloud of a dress for the CFDA awards.

For more: www.bergdorfgoodman.com

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Kate Schelter at CFDA Awards; photo from Style.com

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Givenchy Gladiator Bootie

Schelter’s note: Here a gladiator, there a gladiator, everywhere a gladiator! The trend continues. These are great to juxtapose with a floral “watercolor” print cocktail dress for evening; or with a black mini, white t-shirt and bare (tan) legs. Update this summer trend for fall by wearing these with tights. They just make women look strong, sexy and, well, strappy.

For more: www.barneys.com

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Valentino Suede Peep-Toe Booties

Schelter’s note: I LOVE these. Buy them.

www.saksfifthavenue.com

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6. Monster platform wood soles
Stella McCartney Patent Platform Pump

Schelter’s note: Warning: any platform should be worn by women 5’6″ and BELOW. Tall women, please skip the extra height and opt for the gorgeous classic stiletto pumps – it looks a lot more elegant, and you don’t need the height, I promise. I am 5′ 10″ and I have almost fallen over in these. No kidding. Lost my balance. But this is this season’s editorial uber-trend, so prepare to wear these for one season only.

www.bergdorfgoodman.com

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Marni peep-toe ankle boots

Schelter’s note: Same as above, just with covered ankle.

For more: www.net-a-porter.com

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Fall’s 5 Key Looks: A Cheat Sheet

Monday, December 8th, 2008

This was first published by Lesley M. M. Blume for The Huffington Post 21 August 2008

At last: fall is arriving. In fashion terms, autumn means tall, gorgeous boots; it means delicious layers of cashmere. Ta ta, ugly gladiator sandals; hello, luscious leopard-print swing coats.

What it also means: those mega-issues of Vogue, Bazaar, and W have been weighing down newsstands and crippling postal-workers across the country.

I don’t know about you, but those phonebook-sized magazines scare the hell out of me. I’m too exhausted from negotiating the first 800 pages of ads to drag myself through the editorials.

So to learn more about what the fashion world has dished up for us this fall, I took the easy way out and called up stylist, trend expert, and Huffington Post contributor Kate Schelter (www.kateschelter.com). Here is her shortlist of five major trends that designers and retailers are peddling this season:
1. The tuxedo shall reign supreme.
An appropriate homage to the recently-departed design master Yves Saint Laurent, who introduced Le Smoking to watershed-moment acclaim in the 1960s. This autumn, practically every designer under the sun — from Zac Posen to Calvin Klein – has reinterpreted that Victor-Victoria sensuality.

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above: Erin Fetherston, fall ’08 ready-to-wear, photo from style.com

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above: Zac Posen tuxedo dress, fall ’08 ready-to-wear, photo from style.com

On that note, Schelter reads me a delicious Catherine Deneuve quote about the masculine-feminine tension in YSL’s designs:

“Saint Laurent designs for women with a double life. His clothes for daywear help women to enter a world of strangers … thanks to their somehow masculine quality they give her a certain power, arm her for encounters which may lead to disputes. However, for the evening, when she may chose her company, he makes her seductive.”

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above: Yves Saint Laurent’s original 1966 Le Smoking tuxedo suit

With that in mind, go forth and smolder.
2. Beyond Le Smoking, there will be a major glut of menswear-reinterpreted-as-womenswear.

Suits, suits, everywhere – but nary a padded shoulder.

“This is a very empowering look, but it’s less of a Working Girl moment,” says Schelter. “It’s sexier.”

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above: Band of Outsiders, fall ’08 ready-to-wear, photo from style.com

Look for suits made from materials like silk, as opposed to chunky, tweedier threads:

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above: Chris Benz, fall ’08 ready-to-wear, photo from style.com

Also, those roomy, slouchy ‘boyfriend blazers’ with rolled up sleeves “were everywhere” — from Balmain to Rag&Bone – worn over threadbare t-shirts:

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above: Alexander Wang ‘boyfriend blazer, fall ’08 ready-to-wear, photo from style.com

Omnipresent as well: mens’ shirts reinterpreted as dresses, seen here in wunderkind Alexander Wang’s fall ready-to-wear collection:

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above: Alexander Wang shirtdress, fall ’08 ready-to-wear, photo from style.com
3. High-octane color.

“Color blocking was really important for this season,” says Schelter. Many collections featured “big colors like mango orange, saffron yellows, pinks … it’s like getting lost in a Ciao Bella ice cream store,” she adds.

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above: Chris Benz, fall ’08 ready-to-wear, photo from style.com

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above: Marni, fall ’08 ready-to-wear, photo from style.com

On a less encouraging front: neon colors are back too. Marc Jacobs’s neon bags (with names like “acid yellow”) are still in vogue; fingertips will be going day-glo.

At least it will be harder to get run over by a car at night.
4. Simply irresistible: The Robert Palmer look has been resurrected.

Says Schelter: “We’re seeing the return of the supertight little black dress, referencing Alaia, exentuating the female form.”

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above: Herve Leger, fall ’08 ready-to-wear, photo from style.com

Actress Rachel Bilson gave a preview of this look at a recent New York City party:

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above: photo from Patrick McMullan

I wanted to die as we looked through runway images of the elastic-y, fat-thigh-showcasing new fare, but Schelter was reassuring: “Don’t worry; there are different degrees of covering up this season.”

Thank God for le smoking.
5. Costume jewelry is de riguer.

Now, this is a very happy, humane trend indeed – flea market chic will be hitting the big time at last. Expect to see big, wonderful, shining brooches and necklaces and bracelets everywhere.

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Lulu Frost necklace

“Costume jewelry is the new statement piece, whereas it used to be the ‘It’ bag or shoes,” says Schelter. “But don’t wear it prim and prissy; layer it on.”

Yes, ma’am!

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Kate Schelter, photo by Patrick McMullan